Fruit Trees

 

November 1, 2003

 

By Jiordana Stark, Master Gardener

 

Q: Can you tell me what could have happened to my fruit trees this year? Most of my apples, peaches and apricots had very few blossoms and even less fruit. My care for them was the same as always. I usually have to give the fruit away, there is so much, but this year I had to buy fruit.


Jerry L. Atascadero

A: 
You are not alone with a deficient fruit crop this year, Jerry. As you might recall, we had an unusually mild winter. Nighttime temperatures did not drop low enough or consistently enough to give our deciduous fruit and nut trees the “chill units” they needed to adequately enter a dormant, or “rest” period after leaf fall. Many home orchardists do not give enough credence to the importance of winter chill units. These are the total number of hours of temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees from November 1 through mid February, and are required to effectively break dormancy. Generally, during the winter there should be fifty to sixty days with a mean temperature of 45 degrees or lower. December and January are usually the most critical months. If each of these two months has approximately 400 hours of fairly evenly distributed temperatures below 45 degrees F., then troubles related to mild winters are less likely.

Stone fruit trees, such as peaches, develop their vegetative and fruiting buds in the summer. As winter approaches, the already developed buds go dormant in response to both shorter day lengths and cooler temperatures. Once buds have entered dormancy, they will tolerate temperatures much below freezing and will not grow in response to mid-winter warm spells. However, periods of a few days to a week or more of mild weather may offset or reduce the effectiveness of accompanying periods of good chilling weather, and require more chilling hours than are usually necessary. Last winter is an example during which periods of adequate low temperatures were interrupted by longer periods of warm sunny days.

Trees are kept in dormancy due to natural growth inhibitors that prevent growth. Dormancy is broken in the spring when sufficient chilling units have accumulated to break down these natural growth inhibitors within the tree. As long as there have been enough chilling units, the flower and leaf buds develop normally. If the buds do not receive sufficient chilling temperatures during winter to completely release dormancy, trees will develop one or more of the physiological symptoms associated with insufficient chilling: 1) delayed foliation with late straggling spring growth, 2) reduced fruit set with buds opening over a long period and large numbers of buds failing to open at all, and 3) reduced fruit quality.

Chill unit requirements vary among fruit varieties. Temperature during winter and spring is the key element in choosing fruits and nuts for coastal and inland areas. Spring frost is the main hazard for early fruit and nut varieties in inland areas, killing both new leaves and flowers. Conversely, too few hours of chilling causes problems with fruit production along the coast. Insufficient chilling is probably the most limiting climatic factor for apple, apricot, nectarine, peach and sweet cherry. Due to the many micro-climates in the coastal areas, it is difficult to set hard and fast rules on suitable varieties. Lists, however, of suggested varieties for both inland and coastal orchards are available at .

For more information on chill hours for your area, or on tracking your own chilling hours, contact the
University of California Master Gardeners.

University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Volunteers can provide additional gardening information upon request .Call the San Luis Obispo office at 781-5939 on Mondays and Thursdays from 1 to 5 PM.  You may also call the Paso Robles office at 237-3100 on Wednesdays from 9 AM to 12 PM.  The San Luis Obispo Master Gardeners website is at http://groups.ucanr.org/slomg/. Questions can be e-mailed to: mgsanluisobispo@ucdavis.edu.