It’s July, it’s hot, and newspaper headlines point out that the last two years have been drier than usual. For those whose water comes from a local water district, there’s talk of rationing. If your water comes from a well, you wonder if your water level is dropping.
Conserving water in our landscapes is always an issue, but this year it is more pertinent than ever. As you review your garden, consider these two questions: What can you do to guarantee that none of your irrigation water is wasted? And what should you do if you don’t have enough water for your landscape needs?
Make sure that the water you apply makes it to the root zone of your plants. The top one to two feet of soil is where most of the roots grow. Dig around in your soil before and after watering to check soil moisture. Soil that is too dry will not hold together and will not feel very wet. Soil that is saturated or too wet will release water when squeezed. Apply water when the top few inches appear dry and before plants show symptoms of wilt, but no earlier.
There are many ways to irrigate landscapes. You can water with a plain hose or one with a sprinkler or nozzle attached, or you can use soaker hoses or drip irrigation. Whatever method you use, pay attention to it.
With sprinklers, water is often lost to evaporation before it ever hits the soil. Untended sprinklers are also notorious for spraying water onto sidewalks, driveways and unplanted areas. If you use sprinklers or spray nozzles, water when the air is still and cool to minimize the evaporation and always adjust the spray so it only lands on planted areas.
Soaker hoses and drip systems can be efficient, but you need to monitor the systems for leaks, plugged emitters, uneven soaking and other problems. If you use a timed system to automate your irrigation, don’t just turn it on and forget about it. Check regularly to see that it is still working. Also be prepared to adjust the timer for different weather situations, such as cool, foggy weather or windy hot spells.
Minimize evaporation by covering your soil with mulch. Consider using compost, decorative bark, pine straw, newspapers, stable litter, shredded leaves, gravel or sawdust. Apply two to six inches of mulch; as a general rule, the coarser the mulch, the deeper it should be. Never allow mulch to touch tree trunks. Preserve a six-inch buffer of bare soil around the trunk to prevent crown or root rot.
If you have less water than you need, you will have to prioritize. Perhaps this is the year to give up your thirsty lawn or water-loving ornamentals. Maybe you will plant a smaller vegetable patch. If some plants must be sacrificed, decide which ones are most valuable to you and your landscape and save the water for them.
Many plants can survive on less than the optimum water for one season. Wait until symptoms of water stress develop before irrigating. Stressing shrubs, trees or planting beds can conserve water while keeping the plants alive.
You may be able to use recycled household water, known as gray water, for some watering purposes. Use buckets or jugs to capture the water that runs out of the tap while you are waiting for it to get hot. This clean water is perfectly safe for any plants. The rinse water from clothes washing is safe to use on ornamentals. Wash water from the bathtub, shower or washing machine will contain more soap and bacteria than rinse water and should never be used on food-producing plants.
Detergents and soaps are relatively well tolerated by plants, but some cleaning products contain harmful additives such as boron or borax and should never be used on plants. If you are not sure, don’t use it, as the residue from water softeners, fabric softeners and bleaches can harm plants. And be aware that using soapy water will raise the alkalinity of your soil and could lead to the undesirable buildup of salts.
Eventually rain will return, but we will always have dry summers due to our Mediterranean climate. Watering wisely every summer will help you to make the most of your water ration.