Grown In Marin 

Our agrarian landscape in Marin is changing, with some operations actually thriving. Most operators work their own land, and leases are usually between friends and family, rather than on a corporate model.  Virtually all of our

farms and ranches can be called family farms. The United States Department of Agriculture defines "family farm" as a farm that earns no more than $250,000 annually. There are no factory farms. All of our row and tree crop farms are certified organic. We produce some of the finest shellfish anywhere. Our dairy herds spend months on pasture producing superior fresh milk and milk products. Our beef operations are known for their quality genetics and health, and we are becoming known for our innovations and overall sustainability. Support for agriculture is widespread, with programs like the Marin Agricultural Land Trust, Marin Organic, and the Marin Farm Bureau. We work closely with the county Agricultural Commissioner's office on programs like Marin Organic Certified Agriculture, the Grass-fed Livestock Certification Program, and the Livestock Predator Protection Program. We also work with the Marin Resource Conservation District and producers to preserve and restore waterways. In short, producers and agricultural support organizations are working hard to keep our farming landscapes viable and productive. Challenges exist, no doubt, but progress is under way. How did we get here? 

Miwoks, Spanish and Mexican settlers 

The first stewards of the land were the Miwok, who "cultivated" wild plants through burning and harvesting. They cleared underbrush through ecologically wise management to enhance the grasslands for the large population of ungulates. Around 1820 the Spanish founded the missions and the first cattle ranches, recruiting the Miwok as vaqueros. In 1830 the Spanish began granting land to Mexican settlers, and more cattle began to graze alongside the native deer and elk on the lush grasslands of Marin. Then came the Gold Rush, and a change in our agriculture. Marin ranchers drove their cattle, which were used for hides and tallow, to the Sierra to feed hungry miners, thus depleting the cattle population. In the early 1860s a Californiadrought decreased available forage, causing the death of approximately 300,000 cattle.

 

Swiss, Irish, and Portuguese bring dairy

 

Then, from the east, came entrepreneurs who added crop farming and dairy to the new mix. In 1856 Joseph B. Sweetser and Frank DeLong planted 44,000 fruit trees and 8,000 grape vines in Novato.

       Irish, Portuguese, and Swiss immigrants found their way to Marin and began to develop the fledgling dairy business, milking small herds by hand, and traveling miles over bumpy roads to get their milk to the "stations," which turned the white gold into butter and cheese. The entrepreneurs were on a roll and realized that dairying was the future. By 1860 Marin was the largest dairy producer in California, providing one-fourth of the state's butter.

 

Trains, schooners, butter, and potatoes

More Irish began to arrive at this time and brought with them potato farming. In 1860 Marin was fourth in the state for spud production. As usual, innovation followed.

The need to transport the potatoes, butter, and other foodstuffs spurred the development of the schooner fleets into Drake's and Tomales bays to get product to the lucrative San Francisco market. In 1870 the North Pacific Railroad, with stops in Tomales and Point Reyes, began connecting coastal towns to the city, moving diverse agricultural products. In 1875 aquaculture was introduced with an oyster operation at Millerton Point on Tomales Bay. By 1890 dairying became the principal agricultural activity. Virtually every farm was a dairy, with hogs and row crops for ranch use.

Farming spreads around the county

 

The turn of the century brought the first agricultural support organizations. In 1920 the University of California sent M. B. Boissevain to Marin as the first farm advisor, and the Farm Bureau was established in 1921. The first agricultural commissioner was already on board.

     

World War II, diminished cropping and development

The war and a changing agricultural landscape put an end to most of the row crop farming in Marin. Some tree fruit and poultry remained in Novato, but suburban growth soon consumed the orchards and chicken houses, and row crops fell away.

From 1920 to World War II, crop farming spread and flourished in all parts of Marin. Farming was in its heyday, with silage, corn, apples, and vegetables dominating the crop reports of this period. The central part of the county supported silage growing, with the principal crops being corn, sunflowers, peas, and barley. Potatoes remained a popular crop in the Tomales area, along with winter barley. In the Novato and San Rafael areas, tree fruit and grapes covered 600 acres. By 1938 West Marin and the Point Reyes Peninsula were harboring 900 acres of dry-farmed artichokes and 800 acres of peas.

The Doughty dairy planted vines and began making wine. The Gale Ranch began to experiment with grass-fed cattle. Randy Lafranchi from Nicasio planted six acres of organic vegetables and strawberries.

Organic farming began to expand in West Marin, and in 1999 Marin Organic was formed by a dedicated group of local producers with assistance from Ellie Rilla from U.C. Cooperative Extension. In 2001 the Agricultural Commissioner's office, with Stacy Carlsen and Anita Sauber, became the first civic government accredited certifier of organic agriculture in the United States.

Today and tomorrow

Today, farm diversification is well under way. Rancher Kevin Lunny has certified 1600 acres of his pasture and ranch organic, runs 150 organic and grass-fed cattle along with his conventional herd, has planted four acres of organic heirloom artichokes, and has taken over a sustainably managed aquaculture enterprise. Liz Griffin and Don Bagley are experimenting with grass-fed hogs, pastured organic eggs, and grass-fed beef. David Evans from historic H Ranch continues to bring grass-fed beef to the local community. More row crop operations are opening up, along with processed food enterprises. Producers are realizing that previous generations sometimes had to go outside the box to stay viable, and are following suit.

The next generation

Today we are entering another period of change. Smaller, high-value operations are springing up to service an increasingly hungry Bay Area populace. The larger, traditional family farms are beginning to diversify. Dairies and beef operations are certifying pastures as organic, perhaps readying for a complete herd transition and diversification. Talented and dedicated young farmers like Jolynn Mendoza, Julie Evans, and others are staying on the farm and prospering.

         The experience and boldness of previous generations help us to envision the future. Those before us also faced challenges and obstacles, and their courage and inventiveness can help guide us into  another phase of history in the legacy of Marin County agriculture. 

 

 

 

 

 

      By 1950, dairy was still the predominant form of agriculture with 200 dairies in production. The creation of the Point Reyes National Seashore in the 1970s and market forces influenced the switch from dairy to beef cattle operations, as our agricultural diversity declined. By the 1950s, field and row crops disappeared entirely from the crop report. Dairy, beef, and sheep filled the landscape.

 

In 1971 Warren Weber began farming organically in Bolinas, and Star Route Farms became the first organically certified farm in California. This same year the county adopted A-60 zoning to protect farmland from development, and in 1980 the Marin Agricultural Land Trust was formed to respond to the growing need for farmland conservation. Dairies continued their decline, with more and more operators switching to beef production.

 

       In 1994 Albert Straus pioneered organic dairying by converting his herd to become the first certified organic dairy west of the Mississippi, and creating the Straus Family Creamery.

This bold act set the stage for processors like Cowgirl Creamery to produce specialty organic cheeses and the Giacomini Family to create Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese, thus completing a circle, echoing Bob Giacomini's words "what goes 'round, comes 'round."

Unusually low prices for beef and milk at this time caused producers to look for ways to continue farming. Russell Sartori transformed his fourth-generation dairy into organic strawberries.